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Cruisers Thread, Earz's new build in Ride-Specific Forums; I bet the guys at DBM can do it with the tools they have on site. I bet if you ...
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  #31  
Old 01-06-2010, 04:18 PM
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I bet the guys at DBM can do it with the tools they have on site. I bet if you asked he would let you use his tools or do it cheap, you know how those guys work over there, they will work with you.
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  #32  
Old 01-07-2010, 08:15 PM
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I was wondering if you were going to be able to turn that piece of aluminum. I wish I could help you out, but that is too big for my equipment too.

What about boring your center hole out first, then using allthread or a long bolt as an axle to turn it on?
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  #33  
Old 01-07-2010, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pegasus1 View Post
What about boring your center hole out first, then using allthread or a long bolt as an axle to turn it on?
I thought about that, but I don't need to take any off the outer diameter. It needs to be 4" OD with a stepped hole bored through it (different depths on each piece). I will have to turn a 64mm dia 11mm tall shoulder into one of them to keep the rotor centered, and a 50mm dia 9mm tall shoulder on the other.

Ooooh I just figured out how to do this!!! Pegasus, do you have any way to cut off say a 1.5" sliver of this thing and still keep both ends square? I actually need three cuts, 1.375" thick, 1.375" thick, and 1.875" thick
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  #34  
Old 01-08-2010, 07:09 PM
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My band saw wouldn't do it exact enough and I don't have a parting tool for my lathes that will cut that deep. Sorry!
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  #35  
Old 01-08-2010, 07:56 PM
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Pegasus, does this sound like it'll work if I can't find a lathe big enough

1)      Mark center
2)      Scribe 80mm Ø bolt hole pattern
3)      Mark 6 holes - 60° apart
4)      Drill center and 6 holes 4” deep (do not exceed ¼”Ø bit)
5)      Cut three sections (1⅜” long, 1⅜” long, and 1⅞” long)
6)      Drill one 1⅜” and 1⅞” center as large as possible (do not exceed 1⅛” Ø)
7)      Drill/tap center hole of remaining 1⅜” piece for 10mm bolt to make a jig for lathe
8)      Bolt 1⅞” adapter to jig
9)      Bore backside to 65mm Ø, 23mm deep [12mm deep on 1⅜”]
10)   Turn adapter around on jig
11)   Bore center hole to 30mm Ø
12)   Face front side with 50mm Ø shoulder to adapter width = 38mm.
13)   Repeat steps 8-11 for 1⅜” piece.
14)   Face front side with 64mm Ø shoulder to adapter width = 24mm.
15)   Enlarge all bolt holes to proper size (~8mm)
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  #36  
Old 01-09-2010, 08:59 PM
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"Earz" I think that I might be able to do some of this, but here are some of my limitations; 1. we have no metric drill bits, we make do with fractional inch, wire size letter drills and a metric conversion chart. 2. largest drill that we have is 1.125", but I might have a 1.25" bit 3. we have metric threading equipment up to 14mm.

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  #37  
Old 02-01-2010, 05:20 PM
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I found a lathe that I can use that will chuck up this 4" round stock, but since I started school two weeks ago, I suddenly don't have the time to do it myself. After three trips, I finally caught Travis at DBM. He's gonna knock it out for me.

My rims and spokes came back from Buchanans. Gotta get the rims/hubs and the adapters that DBM is turning out for me to powdercoating, get them laced & trued up then start saving for tires. I'll try to get some pics in the next day or so.
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  #38  
Old 02-04-2010, 02:16 PM
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Here's one of the wheels loose laced from buchanans. I tore it back down to get the rims and hubs powdered black. Still waiting to get the adapters back from DBM before I go to powder.

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  #39  
Old 06-10-2010, 04:10 PM
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Man, it's been a long time since I've posted an update. The wheels have not changed, I took my hub to DBM to have Travis make me some spacers, but *I wanted to watch/help him while he was doing it, and our schedules have not worked out. It'll get done eventually, but it's on the back burner for now.*

I didn't get the engine stand completed like I had origianlly planned, but changed the design a bit and actually used it to tear down one of the scrap lower ends I have (sorry - no pics of it)*

I finally got my carbs back together and installed the 2-1 exhaust that I pulled off the parts bike. I got it running and dialed in for now.

I swapped out the points ignition for a cam driven electronic ignition. It works quite well.*

I also removed all the wiring and am currently making a wiring harness from scratch. I seem to be stalled on this step. I have all the materials needed and know all the connectons to be made, but can't seem to motivate myself to finish it. It is partially finished though. I got it wired far enough to install my new charging system. The stock charging system uses a brush style setup that has it's issues. I'm now using a permanent magnet setup by utilizing a stator from a Honda VF500, a flywheel and stator plate from a Yamaha Banshee, a 1/4" thick aluminum plate to mount said components, a modified woodruff key from a 1968 Yamaha DT1, and a regultor/rectifier from a 920 virago. This setup allows me to run without a battery. Im using a 27000uf 35v capacitor instead. No more electric start for me. This thing kicks over pretty easily though, and one kick with the new charging system creates enough power to fire the plugs. Here's some pics.*


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I've got a 1" handlebar conversion in the works. I'll be running 10-12" mini apes. I've already got the risers and hand controls, just waiting on the bars. Then comes the fun of making cables, brake line, and extending the wiring.*

And I've decided to keep the rear suspension for now, I may go hardtail in the future, but we'll see.*
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  #40  
Old 06-17-2010, 11:52 PM
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allright e-hole u got me wanting to do the R1 bobber! Hopefully soon
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